Bouldering news from Irish Mountain Log 65.
Ian Mulvany and Dave Ayton have done around 15 problems upto 6b (some of which are a little high so a pad is useful) on Inismore, they are near the campsite and marked on Tim Robinson's map of the island as ‘Aill na Móra’. A variation to John Hawkins Thug time at an bpoll na paiste was climbed by Aron Tarjani which goes at 6b. On Innismean Ian and Eoin O’Sullivan also worked a 150 meter traverse on a low wall above the cliff. From the sounds of things there is plenty of unclimbed rock on both islands.
Dave MaCleod from Scotland climbed a 7a that follows a slopey ramp on a boulder below Wall of Prey. Dave didn’t have enough time to add the sitstart that would up the grade to 7b+.
Dave Ayton climbed five quality problems on the same boulder all in and around the six's.
Both felt there is potential for a lot more problems in the scree below the crag as well.
In Glendalough John Gaskins problem 7c/7c+ to the right of the Rails
has been repeated by Rob Hunter, to get the full tick you need to do it "starting with both hands on undercuts/layaways in the cave"
. Problem 26 on the lower path is 7a+ rather than 7c and has been done a good few times over the years but apparently Michael Duffy and Pascal Battault were the first.
The sitstart to the Fin was claimed earlier in the year by a British climber, later it became apparent that he had not done the problem. Now thanks to the power of the web it's probably the best known problem in Ireland for all the wrong reasons. In January Michael O'Dwyer got up very early one morning and did it.
Some good bouldering has been rediscovered on the hillside to the left of the crag at Lough Dan. With both boulders and outcrops, the majority of the problems are highballs on quite crystally, coarse granite. The pick of the bunch is the face of the Shadow boulder 6a with two distinct cruxes separated by a massive jug it feels quite like a route. For the brave of heart and stout of spotter there is also plenty to go at in the scree below the crag.
Since its discovery last year Glenmacnass has been relatively quiet. The place has a special feel and is well worth a visit. By the time you read this there should be topos on the site.
Al Millar and Stuart Hamilton have found a brilliant granite boulder called Echo rock in the Bluestacks (see the last issue of IML for some details) They have also done about 30 problems around 5/6 at Rubonid point on the Innisowen Peninsula. The granite in Eglish valley is also supposed to worth a look.
Rob Hunter has climbed a problem called Triggers 7c somewhere in the Mournes. He said "lovely granite problems, potential for a lot more".
Andy Robinson reports that Coumshingaun in the Comeraghs has masses of potential with a sub-30 minute walk-in. Particularly noteworthy is "a really stunning 4-5 m tall leaning wall at an angle of about 20 degrees covered in pebbles and cobbles". Sounds good.
Thanks to all who submitted information.