Bouldering news from Irish Mountain Log 66.
John Gaskins, one of the best boulderers around, paid a timely visit in the middle of the long dry spell. Amounst other things John added an unrepeated Font 7c+/8a on the steep side of Big Jim in Glendalough.
Unfortunately there seems to be some crampon scratches on the slabby side of Big Jim in Glendalough. Damaging the rock in this way isn't on.
Lough Bray, Wicklow
The much peered at boulders on the terminal moraine beside Upper Lough Bray have finally been climbed upon. Andy Robinson took the lead and we all followed. With about 16 problems the hardest is Away from the numbers Font 7b done by John Gaskins and repeated soon after by Andy. It should be an ideal spot for the summer evenings.
Carrickfin is in North West Donegal on the same peninsula as the Donegal airport not far from Gola Island. A bouldering frenzy over the Easter weekend produced 26 great problems on a large granite outcrop (grid reference B 780 234). The rock is very clean and the landings sandy though there is the odd rock lurking in the sand. The hardest problem was Barry O'Dwyers Super Font 7a+ though the best problems are in the Font 5/6 range.
Rosroe Peninsula, Galway
Is the mile or so of rocky peninsula approached by foot behind the Rosroe (or Gubbadanbo) youth hostel. This is a nice area but the climbing tends to be easy as the rock is very featured.
Killary Harbour, Mayo
The bouldering is on the north shore of the entrance to Killary Harbour directly opposite Rosroe. Its either approached easily with a boat or very arduously by a mammoth walk around from Killadoon. This is the more impressive of the two areas and has loads of potential. The rock in both these areas is gritstone/sandstone.
Thanks to Toby Foord-Kelcey for the information about Killary and Rosroe.