by Dave Flanagan, photos by Ped McMahon.
As my climbing has got shitter (more shit?) I have resorted to cheating. No not pof or chipping or footwork I have been trying to find the easiest way up problems. Here are the results of my research.
James's problemAlways used to stuggle on this as I didn't have the flexability for the high step and rockover so instead get a toe hook with theleft foot beside the starting holds of Wallop and reach all the way up with your left hand to the small jug.
The Nu RailsInstead of reaching from the rail all the way to the holds over the lip, gaston pinch the vertical rail with your right hand, stab your left foot onto the starting crimp and then go again for the top. Also some people seem to avoid the better part of the rail on the left for some reason.
Arete Right of The FinStart with your right foot on the slopey edge on the face and your left hand on the arete then step up and bring your right hand to the arete and smear with your left foot all at the same time. Then put your left foot on the small edge beside the arete and move your hands up the arete all the time keeping your left foot in the same place. It is possibile and not much harder to start from the ground proper.
ChillaxAll that heeling hooking is all very well and good but its a waste of time in my opinion. Note I haven't done Chilax. Keep your feet low and campus the last move to the jug.
Path problemDon't slap from the crimps to the crack or to the top, go to the pinch slightly lower, paste your right foot and then slap for the top.
Big Jim SlabA tricky little number. Get the break normally with your left hand and undercut it with your right so that your elbow is above your head then match the undercut and reach the higher break with your left hand, sprag this break ie. push down with your fingers and push up with your thumb.
Problem 21, Lower PathThis problem is in the pit behind The Rails and doesn't see a lot of action but is well worth a look. The trick with it is instead of slapping directly to the top using a dynamic rockover, static to the tiny edge just below the top and then bump from this to the top.
Don't campus, use the small slopey edge for your right foot and then slap with your left hand.