Bullock Harbour

Bullock Harbour lies just off the Dun Laoire to Dalkey road, beyond Sandycove.

Grid Reference: 263 277

Just east of the harbour there are some interesting short problems on supureb rough granite . The rock gives excellent friction which is barely impaired when wet. The climbs have considerable character in spite of their shortness. Well worth a vist when Dalkey is greasy, or to practise layback and crack climbing.

Access

Turn off the Dun Laoire to Dalkey bus route at Harbour road (next turn left after Sandycove Avenue East) and go down to the harbour (parking). Walk down the east side of the harbour, and turn right through a gap. The first group of climbs is on the mass of rock directly in front of you.

North West group of climbs

All 4 to 6 metres in height.

Directly in front of you is an L shaped wall of rock with steps at the right hand end.

All these routes are about Very Difficult, except The Wall which is a good bit harder.

On the south side of this mass of rock are slabs which offer easy crack climbs at a gentle angle.

South East group of climbs

All 9 to 14 metres in height.

From the last group of climbs walk over the rocky foreshore for about 50m etres to a deep, narrow zawn, with a sewer outlet at the bottom of it. (There are probably routes in this if you can stand the smell). There is a small a barbed wire fence on the far side of the zawn, but the interested climber will circumvent this to landward, and reach a flagpole on the highest point of a mass of rock. Descend to the South East beside the wall on the landward side, and then turn left until you are facing the steep face below the flagpole.

There are 6 cracks in this face, and from the left as you look at them, the Second, Fourth and Fifth cracks have been climbed. They are steep, and quite strenous, but the holds are good and the friction magnificent. All are about Severe. The Second and Fourth can be finished up the exposed but easy slab to the flagpole. The foot of these cracks can only be reached at low tide. There is a big enough through chimney to the left of the six cracks, but it has been used as a rubbish chute and is not therefore very inviting.

There are no records of the first ascents of these routes.

New routes from climbing.ie