Project giveaway #4

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This one isn’t that obscure seeing as it appears in Bouldering in Ireland but it’s worth highlighting. The Holiday boulder lie up the valley from the rest of the bouldering in Glendo, about 15 minutes walk past the Fin. There are a few reasonable easy problems but the standout line is the central groove.  Slightly overhanging, it has a few holds and looks like it will be super technical, the landing is reasonable but a spotter would be useful as there is a block on the edge of the landing zone.

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Project giveaway #3

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This is a nice, not far off the beaten track but not in an established area either. I found this a good few years ago, I have been back once or twice but not recently. I’m highlighting one problem but there is plenty more to go at here.

The problem is a slap to the big sloper and then another hard dynamic move/mantle to the sloping top. The landing needs a little work but will be perfect then and there is plenty of wood around to sort it.

Project giveaway #2

Two weeks ago I started the project giveaway. Every Friday I will post up a photo of an unclimbed boulder problem in Wicklow and give the location. I was in Font last Friday so am late with this (last) weeks.

Anyway here it is. An immaculate concave slab of pristine granite in Mall Hill. It’s just right of the main crag, it’s problem number 16 in the latest edition of the guide.

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It’s very smeary but the rock is top quality, could be very hard but might be just hard, it’s difficult to say with slabs.

Four circuits in Glendalough

Late spring is the ideal time to start going some longer circuits outdoors, the ground is dry, there’s no midge and it’s a good way of training for trad climbing. The following four circuits are found in Glendalough. Of course there aren’t any arrows or markings on the rock so you will probably need the bouldering guide as a cross-reference. Buy it here.

Orange Circuit

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19 PROBLEMS
FONT 3- 4+

Basically a beginners circuit. There is a variety of styles but none of the problems are too high or have bad landings.

• problem 4, Ruins
• problem 5, Ruins
• problem 6, Ruins
• problem 7, Ruins
• problem 8, Ruins
• problem 14, Ruins
• The Ramp, Ruins
• problem 20, Ruins
• problem 2, The Path
• problem 7, The Path
• problem 8, The Path
• problem 18 The Path
• problem 9, The Path
• problem 19, The Path
• The Layback From Wayback
• problem 52, The Path
• problem 56, The Path
• problem 54, The Path
• problem 47, The Path

Blue Circuit

glendo-blue

16 PROBLEMS
FONT 5 – 5+

This circuit should test the average HVS climber to breaking point.

• Original Route
• Jim’s Problem
• Problem 1, Big Jim
• Problem 9, Big Jim
• Smear Test
• Problem 13, Big Jim
• Problem 1, Big Jane
• Problem 4, Big Jane
• The Egg
• Problem 15, The Path
• Problem 24, The Path
• Problem 25, The Path
• The Rails
• Problem 30, The Path
• Problem 51, The Path
• The Überhang

Red Circuit

glendo-red

16 PROBLEMS
FONT 6a – 6c+

Might be possible for a mere mortal to complete this. How about doing it in a day?

• The Plum
• Wallop
• White Arrow
• Quality Control
• Sidepull Slap
• Barry’s Problem
• Traverse into Greg’s Problem
• Nu Rails SS
• Superswinger
• Stand start to 2.4 Pascals
• Black Art
• Blind Stick
• Chillax
• Chuppa Chub
• Arete Right of The Fin
• King Cobra

Black Circuit

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13 PROBLEMS
FONT > 7a+

Short but hard.

• John’s Roof
• Andy’s Arete SS
• The Groove SS
• Leftism
• The Egg SS
• Superstars Of BMX
• B.B.E.
• 2.4 Pascals SS
• The Cherry
• Dutch Gold
• The Mentalist
• The Fin SS
• Mark’s Slab

 

Lough Tay

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I have been to Lough Tay the last two days, yesterday I just took some crag shots and scrambled around the boulders, I found a few doable looking problems with decent landings and left keen to return. Today was so nice I just had to go back with shoes and pad this time.

When you walk to the boulders from the lake the pretty much the first boulder you come to has a great problem that I did just over 12 years ago in January 2002. It’s a bit of tease as it’s one of the few problems with a decent landing in the whole place.

Today I reclimbed this problem (must give it a name), it’s around 6a, did the arete just to the left and an easy problem on either side. I brushed a few other things that felt a little hard including this brutal one mover that revolves around a pair of opposing gastons. Inevitable I left slightly less full of enhtusiams that on the first day but that’s always the way. Over the years I have occisialted between f thinking Lough Tay has massive potential and dismissing it, the truth is probably somewhere in the middle.

There has been a good bit of activity there lately. I saw lots of cleaned problems and I think it definitely merits a topo.

There are definitely some good problems, including the amazing line in the photo above.

New Kerry bouldering – Derrylea


Richard Creagh has climbed a half dozen really nice looking new problems in the mountains of Kerry. The bouders lie very close to the road that runs between the Black Valley and Moll’s Gap in an area called Derrylea. Richard thinks he is the first to climb on them but points on that the boulders are pretty obvious so maybe others have checked them out in the past.

Derrylea North (Google Streetview)

Derrylea North

The boulder on the north side has two low but worthwhile problems.

1. Hollow 6A SS low on the obvious ramp and head towards the prow to top out.
2. Polo 6A Start with L on lower of two jugs (marked), R on a side pull (block is out for feet). Slap to higher jug and top out the prow. A SS a bit further right would be a decent project.

Derrylea South (Google Streetview)

Derrylea South

The block on the south side of the road is taller and better. Climb down the SE arete.

1. Eastern Bloc 5+ Climb the slab on the east face.
2. Ceann Amháin Eile 6B Start on the flat ledge on the left and traverse to the big incut jug and top out.
3. Project  Start in flared hand crack, climb up and left to flat ledge (block on ground is out) and finish up the arete. Landing isn’t great.
4. Eureka  Start in the flared hand crack and head for the big incut jug (block on ground is out). Only 5 as a jump start but an excellent 6B+/6C if you don’t push off from the ground (though I didn’t actually top it out that way.
5. Project Crouch start both hands on the right arete and traverse left along the thin line. Finish up the left arete.
6. Clé Géar 6A Crouch start with both hands on the right arete and head for the top.