Project giveaway #7

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The crag in Lough Dan has a very steep, undercut base. And I think it would be possible to traverse the underside of the roof from left to right. Most of this problem would stay pretty dry in the rain. There is one hard crux exiting the roof and crossing the first section of steep wall but it’s probably not more than 7a. This is a long problem and would probably feel more like a route.

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The traverse would start on the right just above the black pad.

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The logical finish is in the shadow on the left hand side.

Historic Bouldering

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This quarter’s issue of Irish Mountain Log contains an interesting piece by Barry Dalby of EastWest Mapping about Charles Thompson a mountaineer, teacher and collector of placenames. Among the photos is one of Thompson – or possible a friend – bouldering in Glendalough. It appears that most of Thompson’s climbing was done early in his life so the photo probably dates from the 1920s which must make it one of the first photos of bouldering in Ireland. Dalby suggests in the caption that the photos is possibly Glendalough but I’m almost certain that the problem in question is on the large boulder that lies just off the path between the Path Area and the Ruins. The boulder is crossed by a sloping diagonal ramp. I will confirm next time I’m there.

Project giveaway #6

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This one is a little closer to home, and it goes to show that even the most popular venues have hidden – in plain sight – gems to be climbed. So Three Rock, the middle tor, around the right hand side of the wall where it turns right there is a wall, almost like a freestanding boulder. The line keeps to the right using the arete and the slopey breaks. There are plenty of holds on the bottom but the top looks like a typical Three Rock battle.

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The landing is reasonable, a pad and spotter would be nice. Hard to know the grade, probably somewhere between 6a and 7a I would guess.

The last great problem on Three Rock (could have been done before of course).

Project giveaway #5

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A photo of this problem appeared in the guide but didn’t give much details of the location. It’s lies above Fraughan Glen on the left side of the valley above the waterfall.

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It’s an amazing line up the left side of the very steep (maybe 55degrees over) wall. There are holds, beautiful small little dishes and it mightn’t be that hard but I can’t recall what the finish is like. This is an amazing line granted a good walk from the road. The landing is perfect.

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Project giveaway #4

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This one isn’t that obscure seeing as it appears in Bouldering in Ireland but it’s worth highlighting. The Holiday boulder lie up the valley from the rest of the bouldering in Glendo, about 15 minutes walk past the Fin. There are a few reasonable easy problems but the standout line is the central groove.  Slightly overhanging, it has a few holds and looks like it will be super technical, the landing is reasonable but a spotter would be useful as there is a block on the edge of the landing zone.

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Project giveaway #3

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This is a nice, not far off the beaten track but not in an established area either. I found this a good few years ago, I have been back once or twice but not recently. I’m highlighting one problem but there is plenty more to go at here.

The problem is a slap to the big sloper and then another hard dynamic move/mantle to the sloping top. The landing needs a little work but will be perfect then and there is plenty of wood around to sort it.

Project giveaway #2

Two weeks ago I started the project giveaway. Every Friday I will post up a photo of an unclimbed boulder problem in Wicklow and give the location. I was in Font last Friday so am late with this (last) weeks.

Anyway here it is. An immaculate concave slab of pristine granite in Mall Hill. It’s just right of the main crag, it’s problem number 16 in the latest edition of the guide.

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It’s very smeary but the rock is top quality, could be very hard but might be just hard, it’s difficult to say with slabs.

Four circuits in Glendalough

Late spring is the ideal time to start going some longer circuits outdoors, the ground is dry, there’s no midge and it’s a good way of training for trad climbing. The following four circuits are found in Glendalough. Of course there aren’t any arrows or markings on the rock so you will probably need the bouldering guide as a cross-reference. Buy it here.

Orange Circuit

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19 PROBLEMS
FONT 3- 4+

Basically a beginners circuit. There is a variety of styles but none of the problems are too high or have bad landings.

• problem 4, Ruins
• problem 5, Ruins
• problem 6, Ruins
• problem 7, Ruins
• problem 8, Ruins
• problem 14, Ruins
• The Ramp, Ruins
• problem 20, Ruins
• problem 2, The Path
• problem 7, The Path
• problem 8, The Path
• problem 18 The Path
• problem 9, The Path
• problem 19, The Path
• The Layback From Wayback
• problem 52, The Path
• problem 56, The Path
• problem 54, The Path
• problem 47, The Path

Blue Circuit

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16 PROBLEMS
FONT 5 – 5+

This circuit should test the average HVS climber to breaking point.

• Original Route
• Jim’s Problem
• Problem 1, Big Jim
• Problem 9, Big Jim
• Smear Test
• Problem 13, Big Jim
• Problem 1, Big Jane
• Problem 4, Big Jane
• The Egg
• Problem 15, The Path
• Problem 24, The Path
• Problem 25, The Path
• The Rails
• Problem 30, The Path
• Problem 51, The Path
• The Überhang

Red Circuit

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16 PROBLEMS
FONT 6a – 6c+

Might be possible for a mere mortal to complete this. How about doing it in a day?

• The Plum
• Wallop
• White Arrow
• Quality Control
• Sidepull Slap
• Barry’s Problem
• Traverse into Greg’s Problem
• Nu Rails SS
• Superswinger
• Stand start to 2.4 Pascals
• Black Art
• Blind Stick
• Chillax
• Chuppa Chub
• Arete Right of The Fin
• King Cobra

Black Circuit

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13 PROBLEMS
FONT > 7a+

Short but hard.

• John’s Roof
• Andy’s Arete SS
• The Groove SS
• Leftism
• The Egg SS
• Superstars Of BMX
• B.B.E.
• 2.4 Pascals SS
• The Cherry
• Dutch Gold
• The Mentalist
• The Fin SS
• Mark’s Slab